Winter is coming

Things have taken an upswing lately. We'd initially fretted over upcoming holidays because we assumed hallowed times like Thanksgiving and Christmas just wouldn't FEEL the same in South Korea as they do back home. Fortunately for us, a work friend of mine planned a huge spread of yummy food and invited a bunch of friends over to dine together. I must say, it was nice to have real turkey meat. I haven't had turkey meat since we left the states, so it was a treat to have it again.

We also learned an interesting thing: A lot of American food/snacks/paraphernalia can be purchased at the army bases over here. Apparently, the nearest one is an hour or two away in a city called Daegu. My work friend frequently goes here to buy items like Doritos (real Doritos, not the sweetened kind that I find at the local shops here) Smart Popcorn, and so much more. In a way, that makes us happier about living here. When your food options change, your entire life changes. You have to ADAPT to whatever food is available. Cola-Cola is easily available here, much to my happiness. However, deli meat, such as my thinly sliced Boar's Head cajun turkey meat, just isn't a thing here. No longer can I make lazy sandwiches and take them to work. However, I will say that like other U.S schools I've taught and attended, there is no lack of edible items. Somebody is always bringing some kind of food item to share, whether it's a homemade cake, McDonalds (of course that's here, and they deliver to your door, wow!) oranges, persimmons, or little rice cakes that have some sticky sweet stuff lodged inside. Also, my co-workers are always ordering food, and the pungent smell of spicy kimchi, noodles, and other highly flavored vegetables, meat, and rice wafts through the air and hangs in my nose for a long time, firmly encasing memories in my mind.

We once talked of visiting the states over Christmas, but the vast time difference, lack of time off and flight costs are keeping us here. However, don't think we're marooned in Busan to sing Christmas songs alone. Pepper and I have planned a trip to the capital city of South Korea: the dynamic, modern, and yet wildly historic city of Seoul. This will be the furthest we've traveled since arriving here back in July. More pictures and words to follow.

P.S It's getting COLD here....as in, puffy-coat wearing, turn on the space heater, light the imaginary fireplace...COLD. Brrr! I'm kinda glad though.

Jirisan National Park

A three-hour bus ride from Busan can take you into Jirisan National Park, a mountainous region that has been dubbed "Korea's first national park."  The autumn leaves drew us to this place. The air was crisp, the sights were gorgeous, and the hike was strenuous but well worth the effort. Enjoy!

Bright lights, big stress

The fireworks festival at Gwangali Beach was an amazing sight to behold.

Pepper and I love seeing all the cool sights of South Korea. We enjoy talking to all the different people here, Koreans and foreigners included. We even have a bit of fun hopping onto the buses and subways and traveling to where we want to go without having to fret over parking. However, we are both in agreement that visiting another place is much dreamier than actually living in it. Before flying all the way to South Korea, I'd longed to travel nearly all parts of the world and to experience, photograph, and write about them. After being abroad for over three months, I've discovered that we both crave more comfort than we previously thought.

In Busan, we've met foreigners who have lived in Korea for multiple years and/or have lived here for a while, gone back to their home countries, and then returned to Korea for yet another job. Sometimes, I'm boggled by this mindset because I just cannot relate.

One of my co-workers jokingly commented that a lot of foreigners who reside in South Korea are people who couldn't "make it" or fit in at their home countries. If you go to any

restaurant/pub/eatery that is foreigner-owned, the majority of its patrons are non-Koreans. Granted, some are just regular people who want a change of pace from Korean food, but after considerable observation, one notices a particular type of person: bearded white guys sporting hiking backpacks and slouchy, well-worn clothing. Then, there are the types who come here for love...or seemed to have found it regardless of previous intentions. Foreign guys with Korean girlfriends is a super common sight here.

Believe it or not, spotting other foreigners on the street can invoke feelings of awkwardness. Thoughts such as, "Ooh, are they American? Are they here to teach English too? Do I say hi? Or, are they Russian, which means they may not speak English at all? (A couple months ago, I was approached by a Russian girl, and once she realized I didn't speak the Russian language, that conversation was immediately over. I thought....I'd make small talk if only we spoke the same language)!

As of right now, this is how we feel: when Pepper and I return to the states, we probably won't want to travel outside the United States for a while, and definitely not to another country whose primary language isn't English. Learning new words and miming gestures is fun for a while, but sometimes, the stress just becomes too much.

It's Not What You Think...

 When walking around Busan, you will see some things that cause you to do a double take.Take this first picture for example. When someone from America sees the words "black face" you can't help but think about the historically racist portrayals of black people by white actors. Immediately you think to yourself: "Ok, I know these people aren't racist, at least not racist enough to make a store dedicated to creating "black face actors," so what's going on here?"

What's a foreigner to do? Investigate of course! As many of you readers know from our previous posts, hiking is a huge pastime here. There are hiking stores all over the place. Like back home, the brand North Face is pretty popular (not that Americans hike all that much or strictly wear that particular brand for hiking). Like many Americans who grab their favorite North Face jacket when the winter weather rolls in, Koreans love to wear mountain clothes wherever they may be going (this includes the beach).  Well, I guess you could call this place the off-brand North Face because it is just a hiking store that sells apparel for a bit cheaper than the real North Face brand. So that's mystery number one solved, although I don't think I'll ever tell my friends at home that I'm wearing Black Face. Something tells me that might not go over too well.....


As for mystery number two, I know what comes to mind when you first look at this picture because it is the first thing that came to my mind too. But you have to look carefully at the symbol. Notice anything? It's actually a reflection of the symbol that probably first came into your mind. So what is it? What is this symbol for? Well, whenever you see this, this means that there is a Buddhist church nearby.

I remember from many years ago (either from high school or one of my many conversation with

my history buff of a father) that the Nazi symbol was taken from another culture. After seeing this symbol here many times, I did some investigating and learned that this symbol means "good fortune." It is a symbol that can be found in many Asian religions and spiritual doctrines primarily in Buddhism, Hinduism and Confucianism. So during the time when Germany was completely broken as a country following the first world war, the savvy Adolf Hitler needed a symbol for his followers to rally behind with their new found party. Since these Asian religions have been around for many years, I suppose he was inspired to borrow from them. However, being the egomaniac and devout "Christian" that he was, he reversed the symbol to make it his own. If given the opportunity, he probably would have wiped out the very people that he got the symbol from and claim he was actually the one who created it.

So there you have it. No racism. No fascism. Just a country with people of love to hike (or just wear the hiking clothes) and practice Buddhism whenever they find the time during their seven-day work week. Like Jessica has said in many of her posts, this whole experience has been an exciting adventure and I am grateful for each new thing I learn while teaching here. And we're only a quarter of the way through!  

Unbelievable Ulsan

National Geographic-this one's for you. 

We've been living in Busan, South Korea for three months now. That's three months in the same city, with no car and no prior knowledge of where things are or how to get to them. Learning to get around is only fun after you've figured it out the first time. Sometimes, getting temporarily lost is rewarding, yet rather consuming. Travel is more time-efficient the second, third, or twentieth time. My husband and I decided that with an upcoming 3-day weekend, we'd earned a little vacation. When you work at a Korean academy, it's best to take advantage of EVERY holiday and/or vacation day, because they don't come around too often. So, we reserved a room at a snazzy hotel, bought a couple of bus tickets, and rode the hour-long drive to a city northwest of Busan: Ulsan.

Our journey was actually simple: We walked to our nearest subway station (Gwangali) rode the train six stops away to Haeundae, then made the brief trek to the bus station. At this place, purchasing the tickets was slightly hairy, because English information is so limited. However, I will say that travel by bus is hassle free-no security checks or baggage claim to fuss over. Not to mention the enjoyable window-seat views!

Although Ulsan is another large Korean city, we were able to find a beautiful park by the sea. Named Daewangam Park, this area juts out into the sea, allowing magnificent views from golden colored, craggy cliffs. The sound of the waves crashing, flowing, and churning against the expansive rock was completely captivating. There's no more need for words-the pictures will tell the rest.

UNexpected! That should say "unexpected." Sometimes, I hate touchscreen!

Go ahead and laugh at my casual hiking clothes and ponytail. I dare you! It's not every day you get to sit on a cat bench. Can you see the stone felines adorning each side?

I love lighthouses. Naturally, I found these and took their picture.

High winds made this bridge walk an exciting one. The cliff to the right boasts a family of cats (yes, real cats, seriously) and a narrow tunnel where the water would intermittently bathe tourists in a cool, salty spray. When a wave funnels through the ravine and crashes upon the rock, water particles and sunlight create a beautiful rainbow.

A mighty Dragon resides at the park entrance. His eyes kept changing colors....I promise! It's true! Pepper was skeptical, but I saw his eyes change. Seriously. Really! Honestly. I'm not crazy.....

All showered up and ready to see The Martian! What an amazing movie.

One of the park trails led to this jewel of a scene.

One just doesn't see images like this every day.

We stumbled upon a rather stoic sea captain. Pepper says, "What's with this guy??"

City view from our 10th floor window. This city wasn't quite as lit up and flashy as Busan, but it did seem quieter.

Chuseok (Chew-sock) Holiday

I truly believe that a brief, 4-day pause from a hectic work schedule is a tremendous necessity for all. From my observation, Koreans rarely slow down the work train, but when they do, it's for a crucial reason. The most substantial Korean holiday I've observed thus far is called Chuseok. Though I'm not well-versed in this history of this celebration, the gist is to get together with family, pay tribute to one's ancestors, and have a feast. This holiday is similar to Thanksgiving Day in the U.S. This Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday were "off days" for many people and businesses, and my school was no exception to this rule. (Actually, I think one of our Korean-English teachers had to work on the "off Tuesday," but everyone else had the opportunity to remain blissfully duty-free). 

For an actual Chuseok meal, Pepper and I were invited to a friend's house. This thoughtful and well-timed invitation was much appreciated. Otherwise, we might have meandered aimlessly, having no Korean ancestors to discuss and no place to go since a significant number of businesses and restaurants were closed. Other adventures that took place during this break included a gorgeous coastal hike, a trip to a Korean spa, and a particularly lovely beach walk. More pictures and descriptions are to come. For now, enjoy these tasty treats.

A fun, airy, Italian-inspired restaurant called "Man in a Kitchen Garden" boasts yummy dishes such as these. Every so often, it's good to get a break from Korean food.

A Japanese restaurant located near our apartment. Bacon-wrapped quail eggs? You simply MUST try.

Check this out, guys. A sweet, cream cheese pumpkin pizza. Such an awesome thing to try, especially since fall is in its infancy.

Though this restaurant has many yummy options on its menu, they are iffy when it comes to to-go boxes. The waiter seemed to believe that taking creamy pasta home was "unhealthy," but as you may know, creamy pasta dishes are HEAVY, and cannot always be consumed in one sitting. We had to politely insist upon this round take-home bowl.

Dinner with the boss and fellow co-workers. 

A traditional table of food, dedicated to a Korean family's ancestors. Compliments of my friend Jin's in-laws.

Urban beauty. This is located in the Haeundae district of Busan, just a few feet away from a subway exit. An abandoned train station was looks much prettier when orange flowers are scattered about in such a whimsical, carefree manner!

My co-worker and friend, Jin, and her husband.

Just playing a little darts on the holiday break.

Culture Clash: Education style

I'm angry today. Angry and frustrated. The agitator of these feelings is the culture clash between my North American upbringing and its immersion with South Korean life.

Trying to navigate cultural differences during a short-term stay overseas can be fun and amusing, but actually living in a country that is so very different from our own can be downright annoying and painstakingly frustrating.

I always believed that traveling to a foreign country for any reason, whether for mission work,

This is our apartment building. Also, note the Korean taxi.
Taxis here are well-kept and clean. 

vacation, or military purposes, was such an enchanting opportunity. Though my husband and I have only been living in South Korea for two and a half months, we've seen and learned A LOT, and not all of it is good. Some of it is. This country is unique, intriguing, and well-worth exploration, but describing the "good stuff" is merely half-or perhaps three-fourths the story. Merely candy-coating the "good stuff" and leaving out the negative would be misleading to our friends and loved ones, so allow me to express some hidden emotion.

The educational system here is brutal. Korean parents want (SO BADLY) for their children to succeed that they insist upon after-school private academies. Selfishly, this is a good thing for foreigners who are given opportunities to live abroad, gain teaching experience, and learn a new culture. However, academies have a negative side, which is the initially disguised academic pressure on these innocent students. I call this "initially disguised," because from the outside, students seem so intelligent, well-behaved, and submissive. The real reason? They're scared to death of driven parents who insist that they MUST excel academically, competitively outscore their peers and get into "the best universities." (At this point, I'm in the dark about Korean universities. I don't know which ones are considered prestigious, nor do I know what makes a university actually "better" than another). The academy where I'm employed is only focused on teaching the English language, but there are others. There are math, science, music, exercise, computer studies, and probably more that I haven't heard.

My teaching schedule is dramatically different from the schools I've previously worked. In American public schools, I had a daily schedule of three to four classes, and those classes met at the exact same time every day. Planning period, or breaks, were always the same. My Korean school schedule is far more complicated.

 I teach five classes in a row, with ten minute breaks in between. I have MWF classes, TR classes, a Wednesday/Friday class, a Monday/Wednesday class, and a Monday/Friday class. Also, there's an extra study class I teach  one night a week, and occasionally, I'm asked to stay and teach another new, temporary class.

We are expected to arrive by 2 p.m., and can sometimes leave by 8:30 p.m. However, my foreign co-workers and I often stay until 9 or 9:30 p.m., doing whatever task the school's leaders have asked us to do. This work isn't DIFFICULT, but it can be tedious, and when you're new at it, you feel like you're going insane. I've been here just over two months, yet trying to understand Korean culture, and moreover, their WORKPLACE culture, is puzzling. We have multiple meetings throughout the week, which is quite different from my American experience of brief, monthly meetings which have the attitude of, "don't worry, we won't keep you here long, but as professionals, we must meet. Yeah, we can all agree that we'd rather get this thing done so we can go home, grade those papers and/or walk the dog."

 When new classes begin, parents have to purchase textbooks for their children. Most of the textbooks we use have a corresponding "workbook," and sometimes, a "test book." So, this means one class may use three separate books. If new students show up without these necessary supplies, teachers are required to make photocopies of all these books, staple them neatly, and hand them to the student. Since Korean schools, businesses, and overall culture are/is generally very appearance-driven, they expect teachers to make GOOD copies. No grainy, overly-inked or smudgy copies allowed. If you rush and make faulty copies, you will be called out for it. You'll be called out for it not because you're a bad teacher, but because making poor copies is considered disrespectful to the parents, who are paying money for their child to attend the school.

So anyway, I'm angry. I'm angry that new things are always so hard. I'm angry that so many things are beyond my control. I'm angry that so many South Korean students are trained to believe that their self-worth will be lessened if they don't STUDY, STUDY, STUDY. I'm angry that one of my sweet little students, who, with earnest, serious eyes, tells me she cannot complete all the reading required in my class because she goes to so many other academies and can barely keep up with all the rigor. I'm angry that I don't have all the answers. I feel guilty about the fact that, as both a student and a teacher, I've apparently always had more free time than realized. No creative concluding sentence needed. This is how I feel today.

South Korean hiking

A beautiful mountain flower.

No matter how easy or strenuous the hike, most Koreans prefer to gear up in style. It's definitely a THING here. Take note of the hiking shoes, pants, Goretex shirts, backpacks, walking sticks, gloves, hats, and probably more items that are unseen in this photo. Many Westerners feel quite plain next to these folks. Still, Nike shorts and cotton shirts have always served me well in these environments.

Beomeosa Temple.

This picture was from our Sept. 13th hike. On this mountain, we had the opportunity to see the historical temple of Beomeosa and embark upon an incredibly lovely, strenuous hike. 

Unless you live right next to a mountain, the first step to accessing any hiking trail in Busan is to take the public transportation. This is quite the contrast from any hiking I've done in the states. I've hiked trails in both the Rocky and Appalachian Mountains, and each trail head was several miles away from the fast-paced urban scenes. 

Pepper and I loved the diminishing focal point of this scene. This covered path led to our third hiking excursion (This was our second actual mountain experience, as we'd enjoyed our first hike enough to take it twice in the same month).

Why this picture, you ask? Look carefully and you'll notice that this street ascends toward a large wall of greenery. During our first hike, we huffed up this road, turned right, and found the trail head. From this point on, the journey was incredibly steep, yet rewarding.

I captured this shot during our very first hike. I named this bench "the flintstone workout bench" because, let's face it, if Fred Flintstone had been a buff guy, this is the equipment he'd use. Pepper lifted it. I did not. Actually, you won't see many people lifting heavy weights like this in SK; from my observation, Koreans don't seem to be into the macho thing like North Americans. In fact, some men (not ALL, but many) are critical of their weight and prefer to stay as slim as possible. Imagine that, ladies! This cultural desire differs greatly from our Magic Mike-aspirations.

The great thing about this hike (hike number one) is that it's located on a mountain that's behind the city district we live in. For our maiden voyage, we sped up the process by taking a city bus for about a mile, then hopped off, walked a short way, then found a trail head. The second time, we were more confident about the trail head's location, so we simply walked from our apartment.

I watched as this family bowed to the traditional statues of "Buddha." Taking this picture felt incredibly risky because I feared I was acting as rude, irreverent foreigner. Though I can't relate to their beliefs, I do want to respect their cultural traditions and customs. The glass table to their left encases white, lit candles; their significance unbeknownst to Pepper and myself. We could only observe with interest.

Another view that made us glad we left the comfort of our apartment.

Welcome to the steepest hike we've ever had. No lazies, wimpies, or slowskys allowed. The staircase ended at a lookout, but connecting earthen trails led to higher, more woodsy sights. So pretty, and such a great getaway from the busy city.

Pepp, standing over a stream at Beomeosa.

Temple time.

We found stray cats by the temple, identical except for size. Mother and daughter, perhaps? The mother was overly cautious, but we think the kitten wanted to play.

Hiking signs.....though these aren't incredibly helpful for foreigners who have limited Korean-speaking skills ;)

Just goofing off before the hiking journey began. p.s nature fun fact: can you see the green moss in the left-hand side? Moss grows on the north (or in Korean, BUK) side of trees. Therefore, which direction am I facing in this pic? ;)